Deck replacement cost in Pasadena changes when the reason for the job is fire. A deck that touches the house sits inside what California calls Zone 0, the strip within about five feet of the walls, and often only that end of the deck has to change. Fernhill Builders prices the deck connection, the fence ends and the paving as one scope, so you can see what the first five feet takes before you decide how much of the deck to replace.
Tell us about the deck and what meets your walls, then ask for a written Zone 0 quote. Photos from the yard are enough to start the conversation, and we measure on the visit.
The work we are pricing
Most of the first five feet is a shared job. A gardener or the owner handles plants, mulch, leaf litter and firewood. Our part is what is built, and three items come up on nearly every house:
- The deck. Options run from rated decking on the end near the wall to a noncombustible landing, a rated skirt under the deck, or rebuilding that end as a patio.
- Fences that meet the wall. A wood fence running to the house carries fire to the siding. The last section is usually replaced with metal or masonry, or closed with a noncombustible gate.
- Hard surfaces along the foundation. Pavers, concrete or gravel replace bark and wood steps, and the grade has to send water away from the house.
The state's Zone 0 rules are still being phased in, and your local fire agency may set its own schedule. We write to the requirements in force for your address on the day of the scope and note anything still pending, so the work should not need tearing out later.
What sets the price
Deck work has the widest range of the three, so we break it down first.
- How much of the deck changes. A partial rebuild of the end near the wall costs less than a full replacement, though an old deck with tired framing may not be worth keeping. We tell you which one you have.
- Decking material. Rated composite or noncombustible surfaces cost more per foot than ordinary boards. We quote your options side by side.
- Framing and footings. Rotten ledgers, undersized joists or poor footings add structure to what looked like a surface job.
- Height and slope. A second-story or hillside deck needs more framing, staging and often an engineer. A low deck on flat ground does not.
- Under-deck enclosure. A rated skirt adds material and detail around vents, utilities and drainage.
- Fence and paving lengths. These are priced by the foot and by the area, including removal, hauling and any new drainage.
- Permits. Many decks need a building permit, depending on height and attachment. We confirm that for the address and show the permit as its own line.
The quote lists deck, fence and paving as separate blocks. If you can only do part this year, you can start with whichever one touches the most wall.
Replace the deck or only the end of it
This is the call owners ask us about most, and the answer depends on what we find.
Keep most of the deck when the framing is sound, the footings are good and the surface is in decent shape. Changing the last few feet at the wall and closing the underside can be enough for now.
Replace all of it when the ledger or joists are soft, the boards are near the end of their life anyway, or the layout never worked. Paying to protect a deck you will rebuild in five years rarely makes sense.
Swap it for a patio when the deck is low and sits close to grade. A concrete or paver patio takes that area out of the combustible list, and it can cost less than a new deck. Our decks and patios service covers each of these options.
Doing it with other work
The first five feet connect to the wall above them. Open eave vents or a gap at the base of the stucco can undo a clean strip of paving, so we often price the lower wall alongside it through our stucco and exterior service.
If you are rebuilding after a fire, this is far easier to settle on the drawings. On a fire rebuild, the deck, fences and paving can be placed so nothing combustible touches the house from the start.
How the walk-through and written quote work
Book with a short call or the form. We walk the perimeter, check the deck from above and below, measure the fence ends and the paving runs, and look at how water leaves the wall. Then you get a written scope with a line for every piece, plus the choices we think are worth pricing both ways.
If the job needs a permit or an engineer, those appear as named items. We also mark which parts we would do first if you want to phase it.
What to have ready
- The address, in Pasadena or nearby in Altadena or San Marino.
- Photos of the deck from above and below, and of every fence that meets the house.
- The age of the deck, if you know it.
- Any letter from your insurer or fire agency.
- A note on whether you want to keep the deck, shrink it or lose it.
Call us or send the form with the address. We measure the first five feet and send the price in writing.